Mon Aug 29: Ottawa

Today we decided to get a jump on the day, as it was going to be HOT later on.  You can see from this Nebo photo that Blue Horizon is across the water, so it was a healthy walking day.

 

We opted to walk to breakfast, and chose a basic diner, which had an unexpected patron. He came in, got up on a stool and drank his coffee.  Then paid his bill!

He is probably also bi-lingual!

We walked around the By Ward Market area.  Col John By is the Builder of the Rideau Canal, and his name appears quite a bit in Ontario.  The area housed the Canal laborers in 1826, and many of the original buildings now house a melting pot of business/cultures, as well as one of the oldest farmers market in Canada.

Rick poses in front the the original market building. 

Public art is alive and well in Ottawa, as in all of the big Canadian cities we have visited.

Ready for a little history?!  Ottawa is the political center of Canada, and HQ to the federal government. The name 'Ottawa' comes from the Algonquin word 'adawe', meaning "to trade". Ottawa sits at the confluence of the rivers Ottawa, Rideau and Gatineau and existed as a trading area long before it was a city. When Queen Victoria chose the small area as the location of the capital in 1857 it was an unpopular decision.  With time, however, it has come to be seen as a good choice - located at the boarder between French-speaking and the English-speaking Canada.

Having started work on the city in 1826, you'd think they'd be about done by now (note the many cranes on Parliament Hill).... I guess those iconic Victorian buildings require some upkeep.  I'm only 62 and I require a LOT of maintenance.

Like all big cities, Ottawa is grappling with a homeless population.  Tents are fine for the summer, but we wonder what happens in the brutal winter.  Maybe, like all good Canadian snow-birds, they head to FL...

The main thing we wanted to check out today, is the 8-lock flight we will be doing tomorrow morning.  This is one of the most iconic pieces of the Great Loop.  It comes grandly up between Parliament Hill and the fancy Chateau Laurier Hotel. The lock crew works even harder here then on the other Canadian systems.  The equipment is ancient, and they get a serious workout cycling each of the locks, one right after the other. We had the chance to ask some questions, get a map of the entire Rideau Canal and watch a small pleasure boat lock up so that we could see what floats we would need where and what manner of tying up was used (each lock system is different). Yikes - it's going to be a big undertaking.  Hope my one-armed man is up for it...

Of course we had to go grocery shopping, and our favorite store, Farm Boy, was right by the locks.  Unfortunately, we were a bit hungry while shopping, and you know how THAT goes.  We ended up with 2 backpacks and 2 bags full of groceries, but only 1 human could carry anything.  The walk back across the water to the boat sure seemed longer then it had that morning.

We ended the day by FINALLY finishing this puzzle.  It had no business being as hard as it was, at only 300 pieces!

Book Corner - in case anyone cares:

Rick is reading Trevor Noah's memoir Born A Crime, which I just finished.  A riveting overview of the apartheid area through the eyes of someone both black & white - which was illegal at the time.  Anything that starts with the paragraph 'I was 9 years old when my mother threw me out of a moving car' is worth reading....

I've just finished Transcription, by Kate Atkinson.  She is the author of one of my all time favorite books, Life After Life.  Now I'm readying her follow-up to that book, A God in Ruins.  

We also are always listening to a book, while we drive or puzzle.  Right now we can't seem to settle on anything, but are trying out The Tale of the Dueling Neurosurgeons, because we really like the author, Sam Kean.

Sun Aug 28: Montebello to Hull Marina/Ottawa

Just as an unimportant aside, it was a bad night because, part way through the night, a terrible animal smell wafted over the marina.  Maybe a skunk, but very overwhelming. It was so strong that I started thinking of the Yeates poem about 'what rough beast, its hour come round at last, slouches towards Bethlehem to be born...." That scared me so much that I couldn't sleep for the rest of the night.  I'm telling you, as my friend Kim says, at night my brain is not my friend.

It was a lovely day on the water, but HOT and perhaps a bit TOO sunny.  We finally got to Ottawa - only three weeks late.  We had hoped to be here with William/Le, but ... things happened.  As they say in the military - we were overcome by events.

The trip from Montebello was uneventful.  Just one ferry crossing outside of Ottawa, that had 4 moving ferries on different trajectories.  That was a little exciting.

You can see 3 crossing behind us - the 4th is just getting ready to shove off!

One of the first rules of the Loop is that you should avoid traveling on the weekend.  Which we somehow forgot.  It was extra busy on the water today, with the Canadians acting like summer mayflies as per usual - it being close to the end of summer, and a major city area.  At one point we counted 40 boats, just in our vicinity, zooming around heedlessly.  (We call these little day-trippers 'mosquitos').  We (the turtle) lumber down the river and they just fly harmlessly around us - dropping their tubing passengers accidentally in our way, dropping their fishing line in our path, waking us from all sides...  It was a boating extravaganza!

Coming into Ottawa, high on the hill, the first sight is the American Embassy.

Next comes the Canadian Prime Minister's house, with the French Embassy to the right.

We were very happy to get to a marina that offered a pump-out, as we were getting a bit FULL.  It you know what I mean.  Once the poop was off-loaded, we tied up, did some laundry (FREE!!) and walked out to get Thai food for dinner.

We are across from Ottawa, in an area called Gatineau.  Still speaking French, over here.

Speaking of French, it has just occurred to me, now that my brain is thinking in French, that the childhood song Alouette, Gentille Alouette, is TERRIBLE.  What the HELL???...  It's a song meant to teach body parts, but really what it is saying is 'dear lark, first I'll pull your head off, then your beak, etc'.  ACK.  It's even more terrible then Ring Around The Rosy....

We were too sun/heat struck to do more than collapse into our bed, with the AC on full.  Whew...

I guess this is what you can enjoy if you don't have to spend money on the traditional offspring?!

Sat Aug 27: Montebello Interlude

We awoke to a beautiful, calm morning.  Coffee/tea and then off to see the area...

We walked past the cheese shop and the cute downtown (that today, was filled with motorcycles) and on to the hiking trail that would take us to the Parks Canada managed Papineau Manor.  This area is famous (at least in this part of Canada) for the original man who settled here after he was given a large piece of land in 1801: Joseph Papineau.  The area is known as the “Petite Nation”  and was the homeland to many First Nation Native American peoples from the Algonquin tribes (colonists were always giving away land they didn't really own).  A few years later Mr. Papineau bought an additional large amount of land and created a vast estate. Eventually Joseph’s son Louis-Joseph built a manor home on the property and the area around was settled by immigrants from France.  

The Papineau Manor house in the French Style.

 

In 1930 the Chateau Montebello was opened as a resort getaway for the well to do from Montreal.  Today the Chateau Montebello is a Fairmont Hotel resort complete with marina and is claimed to be the largest log structure in the world.  It is quite something...

Massive central hall and fireplace

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pictures don’t do it justice.  The property is situated on a public park (or parc - we are still in Quebec) and we were able to walk around the whole building.  There is a big marina (we didn’t stay there as you have to book a room to leave your boat there), a large pool (very busy on this warm Saturday), a mini-golf course, horseback riding, bike rentals and even a wedding venue (as we passed they were getting ready for a ceremony).   We found a door to sneak in to in order to see the inside.   The main hall was amazing with a massive 100 high foot fireplace.  It was cool on this hot summer day, but we could imagine a blazing fire and a nice cup of hot chocolate on a cold winter day. 

After our strenuous walk around the chateau we stopped for lunch at the local brewpub.  We had escargots and a bison burger!  As one does in a brewpub!

The restaurant was called “Café Zouk” but 
they there were these signs all over…Rickards!!

After a great lunch we needed to get back to the boat for our normal afternoon activity…napping. On the way we stopped at the old train station that is now the most wonderful chocolate factory and shop….

This picture doesn’t do justice to the wonderful
Chocolate shop/factory/museum, but you can imagine…

Finally back at the boat we decided it was too late for a nap and we broke open a new puzzle.  The local boaters were quite taken with our Florida registration, and stopped often to talk about the Loop. 

As the sun went down there was the distinct smell/feel of fall in the air-there was a bit of a chill + wood-smoke.  Plus, of course, the Styx Tribute Band playing nearby-the final summer hurrah of Montebello.  They weren’t bad!  We had forgotten how many great songs Styx has.

After dark the stars were amazing. Too bad the Persiedes aren’t happening right now, and the rumored Aurora Borealis is still a couple of days away.

Good night, Montebello. We won’t miss this marina-it’s pretty exposed and so the passing weekend boat traffic has made it pretty bouncy.

 

 

Fri Aug 26: Hawkesbury to Montebello Muni Marina

Is there anything sadder then a one-armed man trying the sweep the floor?!? That is what I awoke to .... Luckily he can still make me tea.

We had a slow start this morning (hooray!!) due to a lovely rainstorm.  By 1pm the sun was out and we pushed off for Montebello.  

While driving we played a game we recently invented, called  'what sets weekend boaters apart from us'. Here are some of the things we have agreed on so far - clean cloths, ice that is not melted, a recent shower, nicely combed hair, a clean boat, and pale or sunburned skin.  

It was a short hop, which was good because the one-armed man kind of overdid it yesterday (DUH). Even handicapped he impressed the dockhands at Montebello with his mad docking skills (very capably aided by his first mate, I might add). And where do you think our first stop was???  If you guessed the Montebello Fromagerie you were exactly right!  Then it was a quick spin around the town and a quiet reading night on the boat. We'll have all day tomorrow to look around...

Frippery is one of my favorite words in English, but much more elegant in French.  What a great name for a store! 

Thurs Aug 25: St-Anne to Hawkesbury Free Town Wall

We are slaves to this blog now - SLAVES, I TELL YOU! Every morning Betty Mom wakes up and DEMANDS her update.  We are typing our fingers to the bone.  I'm going to unionize....

Somehow we both woke up under a cloud of existential crisis.  I don't know what it is - maybe we are just worn out from worry and pain (Rick), but we couldn't remember why we were on this adventure.  Or even the purpose of life. I don't sleep well since I have to touch him every two minutes to make sure he was still breathing (it's a COLLARBONE, FOR THE LOVE OF PETE) and/or I can't whack him as per usual if he is snoring.  So it was a long night for me, and I'm not the one with the injury.  That person also had a long night.  I had barely dragged my sorry-ass out of bed when the St-Anne Lock called (what a great system - they call you!) to ask all captains locking through to report. After yesterday’s successful trial run we decided to move on, so I reported in, started the engine, didn't brush my hair or teeth -  and away we went. Rick riding pillion, for a change.

One of the reasons we decided to continue is that the Canadian pleasure-boat locks (all part of Parcs Canada) have dock hands to help with lines - so Rick will not overdo it as a deck hand (I don't remember anyone ever worrying about ME overdoing it as a deck hand - even the time I had to switch fenders side to side, twice). And St-Anne was a pleasure - lovely help, and they sold ice IN THE LOCK!

 

Once through we were on the Ottawa River - and that lifted our spirits.  Back on the trail... The Carillon (pronounced Car-ee-YON, spoken very fast, with a strong emphasis on the last syllable) lock was the next hurdle and it is a Big One.  This is a newish lock (built in the 1950’s) and it has a 65 ft lift!  It is by far the largest lift we will experience, but its interior cannot hold many boats. The lock operates using a “guillotine” gate.  Instead of two doors that swing open like most locks, this lock opens by lifting a huge single door up and over the entrance to the lock.   Once it is fully open (which take a LONG time) boats enter and hand lines to a dockhand who is standing on a floating dock at the side of the lock.   

To give you a sense of scale, the arrow points to Rick standing next to the lock!

Inside the lock with the door sliding down into place. It's a canyon, and there were lots of tourists peering down on us.  There are often older guys checking out the different locks - sometimes accompanied by (possibly less enthusiastic) spouses. It always makes me think of Rick's dad, and how much he would have loved these things.

 

There were only three boats in the lock (Blue Horizon + 2 small pontoon boats) but apparently this lock can get very busy on weekends and then the boats have to tie to each other, shoulder to shoulder (called ‘rafting’).  We are glad we missed that excitment.  Once the door closed the valves open to let water in and the dock/boats slowly float up with the water level.  The floating dock makes this a very easy lock to use.  The total lock cycle - door open - boats enter - door closes - fill - upper doors open - boats exit - took almost 50 minutes. We spent the time chatting with the other boaters and the lock attendants.  A very pleasant trip up 65 ft! 

The front end of the lock (or upstream end) - this will all be under water in 30 minutes

Water level rising - you can now see the upstream doors
(the more traditional 2-side doors that will swing open on either side of the lock) and the vanishing staircase.

 

The Ottawa River here is the border between Quebec and Ontario.  After exiting the St.-Anne-de-Bellevue lock the south side of the river became Ontario (prior it was part of Quebec) so we are now traveling between the two provinces. In Hawkesbury, where we tied up to the free town wall, we were back in English-speaking Ontario for the first time in 6 weeks.  

Does this look to you like a person who is taking it easy and USING HIS SLING PROPERLY??? (No really, Doc.  I have no idea how I re-injured the bone.  I was ‘wearing’ my sling...)

 

Thinking that part of our existential crisis might be due to the fact that we’ve had absolutely no exercise since Rick’s injury, we put on our walking shoes, hoping to generate some endorphins!  Sadly there was no 'there' there. Hawksbury might as well be called Hicksbury, and there wasn't much to see... Well-we saw a Groundhog, so that was exciting.

And we saw Petanque Parking - which is a first for us!

It might be a crummy town, but it was a peaceful dock.

Wed Aug 24: Lord Reading to St-Anne-De-Bellevue Lock free wall

A short day today, by design, so that we can see if it is even possible to go forward. What with the 'delicate flower' that is now my husband.

 

Goodbye, Lord Reading.  You were so kind to us!

Even with our 'football time', we arrived at the St-Anne wall. St-Anne is THE happening place with restaurants, bars and live music, and all kinds of small and medium sized short-distance boats come for dinner, or to hear the Wed music. As we have noted before, Canadians are like Mayflies and ENJOYING THE HECK out of their short summer/life. We got there early, and therefore had no worries about wall space.  We hear it can get incredibly crowed during the peak of summer, with boats rafting (shoulder to shoulder) all across the canal.

Boats kept coming in, but there was plenty of room. AND, we were on the opposite side from the music so we could enjoy it rather then being oppressed by it.

The leaves are starting to show some fall influence.

Good night, St Anne!

The live music stopped about 9:30 and most of the small boats left after that.  It got quiet and we had a nice evening securely tied to the town wall.   Tomorrow we will continue up the Ottawa River towards Ottawa and the Rideau (pronounced Rid-O) canal. 

Tues Aug 23: New Friends and a Decision

Rick speaking:

So my bone is healing, but very slowly….so frustrating.  Melanie, in a helpful\not irritating AT ALL way keeps reminding me to be careful.  I do so enjoy it when she tells me not to do something….

Our new friends, Robert and Claudette, who live on a boat in the marina, offered to lend us their car so we had transportation. 

Robert and Claudette

After a leisurely morning trying not to move (upon orders of Melanie MD), we took the car and drove over to St.-Anne-de-Bellevue to check it out and have lunch. (Wonderfully provided by the Murphy family -thanks so much to you guys!).     Robert and Claudette had mentioned a few “must see” locals in St. Anne and we hit them all.  Actually there is a very interesting, historic department store that still has the 1930’s era pulley based cash collection system hanging from the ceiling . It looks like an erector set that was hung from the ceiling so the salespeople could clip on the cash and it would get transported to the central office.  

 

Today it is a quaint and beautifully outfitted store, selling overpriced everything and trying to survive.  

Lunch was a wonderful spinach salad and thin crust pizza at Violet Angel!  One of the best lunches we’ve had in some time…

Violet Angel lunch - very nice

After lunch we hit the the small local grocery story to stock up on provisions.  We’ve decided to leave the marina tomorrow to try to get back on track.  I’m slowly healing, and Melanie is capable of the work anyway, so we should be able to motor carefully forward on our next leg of the trip. We will cruise to Ottawa, the capital of Canada (see - this is an educational blog) and then follow the Rideau canal back to Lake Ontario  and then Winter Harbor, outside Syracuse, to leave the boat again for the winter. 

Mel here - one of us is a Bad Bouy for not taking care of his bone... 😡

Mon Aug 22: Update on NOTHING

Rick speaking:

This is an interesting part of Montreal for us to hang out in.  It's called the West Island area (Montreal is actually a big island), and it's dominated by English-speaking inhabitants.  There is still French around, but it is the first place since we’ve been in Quebec that most people speak to us first in English.  Also, unlike in the rest of Quebec where everything is in French and only French, here the signs are also in English and websites have a button where you can select language.  People here have very different feelings about the French language (and government) compared to other parts of Quebec we have visited. We have been told that business must operate in French - employee handbooks in French, emails written in French, etc. Signs must have French first, or larger, then the English.  Needless to say, everyone is mad about some aspect of the arrangement.  I do feel for the French speakers who are still 'ruled' by the British and as an outsider it seems like an insurmountable problem.  Eventually English would prevail and the French language and attached culture would fade away, just as they fear.  But can you make people speak French by passing laws and fining them if they don’t? 

Celebrating the Queen's Jubilee, whether they want to or not.  This is a good example of signage - with the French coming first.

 

I continue to heal but it is frustratingly slow.  I wish we had one of those things they have in the Star Trek movies that the doctor waves vaguely in the vicinity of the broken bone and it heals in 30 seconds.   Melanie is being a really good sport about the whole thing and she jumps up to get whatever I need….(Mel here: perhaps SOME of us would heal more QUICKLY if they stopped DOING things they AREN'T supposed to do.  Just sayin'.)

Today we took a bus over to the Walmart (it’s much nicer if you pronounce with a French accent) to resupply.  Just like the stores in the US it looked like a tornado had hit the place with so many bare shelves and merchandise sitting on pallets waiting to be put on the shelves.  It looks like Canada is having the same labor problems as the US. (Guess WHO has to carry ALL the bags?!)

Cultural appropriation: an Inuit style statue
Used to help herd caribou into a group for hunting, or to mark the trail.

 

Mostly to pass the time we have been doing puzzles….Mel found a local thrift shop with some 'baby' puzzles (less then 1000 pieces).  Here are some examples of our 'work'. 

While we puzzle we listen to our audiobooks.  We use (alert reader Linda wanted to know) the free universal library app, Libby.  It's very user friendly and can be used with any library card (we have cards from more than one state). You can check out audiobooks or e-books, and can listen/read on any device.  Right now we are listening to the first book in the Inspector Armand Gamache series by Louise Penny, Still Life. Linda introduced us to this series, set in many of the areas of Canada we have visited. Tres charming!

PS: Inspector Gamache keeps talking about Licorice Pipes.  Has anyone ever heard of those?  I can't believe they are still a thing - maybe they went the way of candy cigarettes...